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DANNY BAYSHORE

A journal of everyday menswear

Everyday Outfits

What to wear with navy chinos

One pair of trousers, three different levels of dress. Start with the shoes, then build the rest around where you are going.

Navy cotton chinos worn with a cream T-shirt, brown belt and suede loafers.

Navy chinos are a dark base rather than a complete outfit. Their usefulness comes from changing what surrounds them: the same trousers can sit below a sweatshirt on Saturday or a shirt for dinner. The result depends on their cut and condition as much as the colour. A heavily faded, pocketed pair will not behave like clean, pressed trousers just because both are navy.

Before choosing a top, put the chinos on with the shoes you expect to wear. Look at the hem. Fabric pooling over a low trainer creates a different silhouette from a short, clean line above a loafer. Neither requires a universal rule, but the choice should look deliberate. If every shoe produces a large pile of fabric, the trousers may simply need shortening.

For an ordinary day out

Try a white or off-white T-shirt, navy chinos and low-profile trainers. The light top gives the dark trousers a clear contrast. This combination leaves very little to distract from fit, so check that the T-shirt does not cling at the waist or hang far below the trouser pockets. A slightly roomier top can work with straight chinos; a very long, narrow top changes the balance.

Add an olive overshirt if another layer is needed. Leave enough room for the T-shirt sleeves underneath, and look at the outfit with the overshirt both open and closed. An overshirt that only fits when unbuttoned may be less useful than it first appears. If you prefer a denim jacket, choose a wash that is visibly different from the trousers rather than trying to create an almost-matching suit.

For a casual office or dinner

A light blue Oxford shirt and brown suede shoes move the same trousers in a different direction. The fabric of the shirt matters: an Oxford's visible texture can sit comfortably beside cotton chinos, while a very smooth formal shirt may ask for more polished shoes and a tidier finish. This is a styling option, not permission to ignore a workplace or restaurant dress code.

Decide whether to tuck the shirt by looking at its hem and the overall proportions. A long, curved shirt tail can look unfinished when left loose. A shorter casual shirt may work untucked, especially without a jacket. If you tuck, smooth the excess fabric instead of pulling the shirt tight against your body. Sit down and reach forward before deciding that the arrangement is comfortable.

A belt can connect the trousers and shoes without matching every shade exactly. Dark brown leather beside medium-brown suede is often easier to live with than an elaborate search for identical colours. Keep the buckle unobtrusive if the rest of the outfit is restrained. The belt should not have to gather several inches of spare waistband.

When the weather turns cooler

Use a grey crew-neck jumper over a plain T-shirt or shirt. Grey creates separation from navy without introducing another strong colour. Compare a fine knit with a chunkier one: the latter may need a roomier coat and slightly fuller trousers to avoid an exaggerated top-heavy shape. Check the whole outfit, not only the jumper in isolation.

Navy on navy can also work, but it needs visible differences in texture or tone. A matte cotton trouser beside a softly textured knit looks more intentional than two almost-identical smooth fabrics that fail to match. Daylight is useful here; indoor lighting can hide the difference until you leave home.

If the outfit still feels wrong, change one element at a time. Try another shoe shape before replacing every garment. Then check the trouser length and the amount of shirt showing beneath a layer. These small decisions usually explain more than adding a watch, scarf and new jacket all at once. Keep the combination that suits your actual day, including the walking, sitting and weather it involves.

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